Calvin Klein Collection – AW25
A Fashionable Return: Calvin Klein is Back and Ready to Slay!
Hey, fashionistas! The style world is buzzing, and it’s all for one iconic name: Calvin Klein. In a city that rarely sees a debut with this much energy, something truly special happened. The last time New York felt this electric was back in 2017 when Raf Simons took the reins. This time, the anticipation was even higher because the brand’s legendary founder, Calvin Klein himself, was in the room, making a rare appearance after two decades.
With the man who made simple sexy greeting guests like Kate Moss and Christy Turlington, the stage was set for the label’s return to the runway after a six-year break. And who stepped into the spotlight? Veronica Leoni, a 41-year-old Italian designer and the first woman to creative direct the brand. With a resume that includes behind-the-scenes stints at Jil Sander, Phoebe Philo’s Céline, and The Row, she’s a master of the minimalist, tailoring-focused aesthetic that Klein pioneered.
Honoring the Legacy, Defining a New Era
Leoni’s approach is a respectful nod to the founder’s vision. While many designers dive deep into archives for a brand relaunch, Leoni took a more instinctive path, pulling just a single item, a slingback ballerina flat from the back catalog. Her mission? To connect with the brand’s original energy and create a “24/7 wardrobe” that feels both cinematic and real.
The collection opened with a nod to the 1990s, featuring a dove gray collarless jacket and matching pencil skirt. From there, she delivered a masterclass in modern essentials, including sharp trenches, neat button-downs, and relaxed denim. The collection concluded with voluminous jersey dresses and a chic wrap-front tuxedo, proving that minimalism can be both versatile and glamorous.
The Return of Sensual Minimalism
Previous designers have often missed the core of Calvin Klein’s genius: the hot, sensual side of his pure aesthetic. While Francisco Costa’s designs were a bit dry and Raf Simons’s were not truly minimal, Leoni’s experience with brands known for their clean, almost “fashion nun” aesthetics suggested a similar struggle. But this collection proved otherwise. Though it didn’t feel overly provocative, it certainly raised the pulse. The real magic was in her clever manipulation of silhouette.
Leoni introduced a skinny silhouette mixed with a sharp, cropped, knee-length cut. This new proportion felt refreshing and is a true mark of a great designer, the ability to change the way we think about getting dressed. She also showed a knack for creating a cult object, with the clever CK One bottle-shaped evening bags.
Calvin Klein himself weighed in after the show, saying, “For a start, it’s pretty extraordinary.” And judging by the thoughtful, exacting make of the clothes, like the antique gold embroidery scissors she wore tied around her neck, Leoni has delivered a powerful and promising debut. The final test will be in the stores, but with a start this good, we have a feeling the brand’s mystique is back and stronger than ever.
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